Saturday, December 3, 2016

Silver Mountain Water natural interpretation and inspiring oils/absolutes

 Happy Saturday, very happy to report a perfume natural botanical  personal interpretation of Creed's Silver Mountain Water  has turned out lovely. I made about three versions for my friend over the years but this one seems to be the most linear.  That linear quality when composing natural perfumes can be hard to obtain. This occurs most often when working with carrier oils. Unfortunately  I can't afford natural perfumers alcohol.  This creates a necessity for the wear to give it a minute before the introduction of Everclear disappears. It's rather a pain in the butt. My introduction to truly elevating natural perfumes came a few years ago sampling a few of Providence Perfume's offerings. No clunkiness in composition  to be found,  but elegance.  I believe Charna (from Providence P and I have a strong affinity for the same  particular fragrance notes.   I think that's why I drool over her  compositions, though unfortunately I can't afford them.
 What extra money I have goes to find scented botanical jewels  found in the natural perfumery world. White lotus aromatics has Genet/Broom  absolute back in. It's hard not to drool and have wistful dreams of being a millionaire while perusing their site.  New on my pallete is Choya Loben which I recommend smelling the aroma on a warm ceramic stone.  On a paper strip Choya will come across immediately smokey terpine & resinous by placing it on (what I've used was a soufflé bakeware turned upside down in the oven for a minute then placing a few drops of oil on it)  The order immediately warmed into dreamy Siam benzoin creaminess.
  Another recent heappy discovery was Aftelier's frankincense from Kenya. It was the most light, joyful and lemon noted frankincense I'd ever come across. Liberty Natural has one from Kenya that smells about identical.
 I hope to be blogging a bit more as I am gearing up to hopefully open the Etsy store in the spring. I have another surgery to go through not on my neck this time but on my foot the end of December  Many surgeries over the past years have squashed my perfume making but I am reenergized.
Happy Saturday. -Kait

Saturday, November 26, 2016

Friday, March 6, 2015

Rude awakening

Here I peak my head from perfumery sleep like a Daffidil from the cold ground in winter and peruse  the Eden Botanical website with one oil in mind. Nutmeg. They do not have nutmeg. Where is warm, round spicy goes ever so lovely with lemon and vetiver - mind numbing nutmeg? I'm going to go back to sleep.

Saturday, February 23, 2013

Brian Eno "Scents and Sensibility" and the scentual world fanatic

Being a musician, scent obsessed and a fan of Brian Eno you can imagine my absolute delight some years ago finding out he was not only knowledgeable about the history of perfumes, botanicals and notes but tried to recreate odors with much devotion. He also created an application called,"Bloom" for iphones that allowed one to make ambient music in relation to their chords in the perfume organ. There are low bass tones like Vetiver, to top higher pitch Bergamot, and of course the middle notes in between. One can pick and choose individual or more notes, composing their own musical perfumes to be held heavenly aloft, soothing the soul and drenched in adjustable reverb.
Brian Eno treasured us with an inspiring 1992  article in Details Magazine called "Scents and Sensibility". Eno wrote in rich fragrant detail, his bordering on spiritual and mad scientist experiences. Within this article one could understand how the flicker of "Bloom" would eventually take seed in the technology offered in the future. I almost feel his pain via the conundrums of composing, the endless hours spent contemplating, being profoundly effected and taken hold by the vast ecstasy that the scentual world offers. It may be trivial or just inexplicable mind numbing to the layman the pleasure that odors bring to the scent adventurer. The uncurious may look to the nearest exit or a parachute as an olfactory elated person goes off on an enraptured monologue about the creation of Jicky or their likes or dislikes between one region of vetiver from another. Scents are music to my ears..listening with all the senses. Observing life actively with full awareness, being transported, I could go on and on..

Friday, March 16, 2012

Giddy up! All natural Cuir de Russie decimates a village.

Quick update..
Hi, My back is inching toward letting me work in very, very short stints.
The all natural Cuir de Russie I am working on is so eye watering strong it could, "bring down a village" as I told someone in an e-mail. This nice patient woman has been for months awaiting the outcome. I am afraid to send her some as via opening the perfume bottle she may be blinded. It takes quite a while to settle into the skin. At first whiff..holy beans...the war mongering top notes do not give an inkling to the powdery softness and calm that awaits. I have no more Chanel Cuir to whiff & compare I am a bit afraid to send it to her. I invasion in my head her in such disappointment mailing me a bag of rotten tomatoes to throw at myself. This 190 proof perfume is my perfectionist olfactory Everest...I may have (with shame) to try to turn around and re summit.
New on the challenge guillotine block is vintage Shalimar. I seem to be having a bit more luck with that.
Though I have only smelled Shalimar once years ago before starting to compose. Really..one cannot expect a totally natural oil based parfum to get that synthetic...
But! Shalimar (luckily) is very vanilla based, the original creator actually demanded a lower grade vanilla notes. He, story goes wanted to see what happened when dumping a ton of vanilla into a bottle of Jicky. I am duplicating the vanilla aspect with vanilla bourbon co2, madagascar oil infusion, peru balsam, benzoin and guaiacwood. Yes, guaiacwood. Thank goodness I had the guaiacwood!
As for the Etsy store...I am again sorry to announce I am still physically unable to reopen it.
Have a smell-good day,
-Kait

Monday, July 11, 2011

Composing /interpreting perfume to all the arts ie: Rothko, Matisse, Satie, Fellini, Donatello, Joyce, Newton.

Yessereee, yet again the wee small hours of the morning. Sick and can't sleep.This year has been a little difficult health wise. My shop is closed again. I figure half of 2011 is the year my body becomes immune to everything..including doubt.


I am happy to again be busy with soundtracks but also my overactive mind keeps me up some nights until 4a.m. with visions of the artistic potential and excitement that I know is abuzz with natural perfumery.
I love the idea of combining poetry, music, visual arts and storytelling with natural perfumes. Not necessarily all at once, mind you. Yikes! Sensory overload!  I have always been a fan of very visual writing, poetry, impressionistic era music and cinema. Combining artistic vision with perfume asks the wearer to have patience to use their nose and really "listen" to the notes. Such as if you composed a perfume to a classical piece of music that lasted a half hour or a olfactory soundtrack to poem or film where there were fragrance clues. In all art it is open to subjectivity. 
I feel composing natural perfumes is like sculpture and painting as well. 
Just think of recreating a later Mark Rothko olfactory with perfume. He used great intense, soul wrenching blocks of symmetrical contrasting colors, counterpoised yet that work beautifully together.
Take for an example the Rothko painting below called,"Magenta, Black, Green on Orange". 
One could compose a perfume evoking the feeling and range of colors (open to personal interpretation of course!)  from this pallet of naturals. (colors may vary if you are using absolutes, co2's etc I only have the basic color from the template but you get the idea....)
Fathomless black- browns of:Labdanum, vetiver, oakmoss, tobacco & angelica and cardamom co2.
Greens:Wormwood, tarragon,
Absolutes of: hay, fir balsam, clary sage, coriander and an infusion of sweetgrass .
Yellows, oranges, reds/magenta: Lemon, tuberose, rose 
 These are seemingly odd combinations that actually blended judiciously work well for a very artful perfume composition.

As for literary references while working on my perfume, "The Lotus Eaters" I not only turn to the Lotus Eaters chapter in the epic poem "The Odyssey",  I look to one of my favorite writers James Joyce. In his own epic novel "Ulysses". One of my favorite chapters, #chapter 5 is ironically called "Lotus Eaters". It is fantastically descriptive, a bit vulgar for the time it was written.( I skipped using Tennyson's lotus eaters poem) Joyce's "Ulysses" may come across as grotesquely decadent, ugly, truthful, sensual, incredibly visually descriptive, erotic, obtuse, sickly and slightly stomach churning. Ahh, all the things I love to hate to love. Perhaps Ulysses is almost comparable to not being able to realize how sick or guilty you feel as you eat the best gargantuan piece of chocolate cake and chug a huge bottle of fine port while having an affair with a young model on a gazebo in Monte Carlo. This makes no sense because this is someone's dream (not mine, mine would involve me looking like a Helmut Newton model, a yacht, Monte Carlo, champagne and Leonardo Araújo the coach of Inter Milan).
Here is a very small snippet from chapter 5 "Lotus Eaters" from "Ulysses"

From chapter 5:


MARTHA.


P.S. Do tell me what kind of perfume does your wife use. I want to know.


He tore the flower gravely from its pinhold smelt its almost no smell and placed it in his heart pocket. Language of flowers. They like it because no-one can hear. Or a poison bouquet to strike him down. Then, walking slowly forward, he read the letter again, murmuring here and there a word. Angry tulips with you darling manflower punish your cactus if you don't please poor forgetmenot how I long violets to dear roses when we soon anemone meet all naughty nightstalk wife Martha's perfume. Having read it all he took it from the newspaper and put it back in his sidepocket.