Journaling the Way Of The smell trained Nose
I feel like some task master-because I don't say what people want to hear when they come to me asking "how do I become a perfumer?" and I tell them they need to simply begin to smell everything around them-begin smell training before composition. (not very glamorous when I say, go, put their nose in their spice cabinet or just grab an orange and break the peel wanting them to get in touch with their unique -you can do it -find the joy -smell feelings, as if I am Mr. Rogers) I feel uncomfortable, even saying I'm worthy to advise-tell anyone anything.
That is the natural respect I think a perfumer has for materials. They're always humbling you.
How dare you call yourself a Perfumer? Have you smelled your last composition???
Oh, and now you're going to try to fix it YOU KNOW YOU CANNOT GO BACKWARDS-ERASE IN PERFUME!
Bad Kait! Always trying to fix things and try to make them better. SIGH
Perfume composition reflects our personalities, and all its foibles so so much it's uncomfortable.
( trying to have a dignified air while my materials are laughing at me)
I'm trying to lead perfumers to notes, but I can't make them smell.
Talking through walls, trying so often to impart the (I try to understand it must be mind boggling requesting that they learn the different distillations- CO2,EO concrete, absolute, region, suppliers, sampling, anything they can get their hands on in small amounts, because each supplies going to be so different from supplier to supplier.
They may begin completely disliking a material and then finding out later they really like it just because they bought it from a different supplier.
The individual relationship one develops with their material overtime is so personal if they're truly committed.
I inpart to begin Smell training before a composition is crucial- 2023 is a different time though verses 2006! I have to remind myself over and over and over again that people's attention span (and I'm even ADHD certifiably) is limited, and they want to just get to the meat in the bones in the grizzle not sniff around. They want to jump right into wearing truly perplexing as carts and bolt pattern shirts and dark sunglasses like Roja Dove and looking like they live all year round in the Mediterranean.
Perhaps it was because I had to take my time because materials could set off a cluster headache and I had to be very careful, but I also had no one around to tell me what any sort of process was I just with every material in increments of like 5 to 10 to 15 to 1/2 hour, and hour and on -was because I had to take my time because materials could set off a cluster headache and I had to be very careful, but also -this is before any connection with social media I had no one around to tell me what any sort of "right way" process I was supposed to be doing. So those 5 to 10 to 15, 1/2, hour ...I noted their impact through evaporation made my impresdions. it wasnt work for me because I loved smelling the materials from all over the world. I found overtime, and probably into the 12 year that this was something kind of special. I really could know what I need it for my perfume Oregon immediately to create whatever basically came into my imagination..
This slow sometimes or often times having a very high standard for myself, and probably a bit of flogging. Every time I was making errors ruining compositions, but that's part of the learning process I think was very much helped to get threw by
my years taking Tang Soo Do Karate. It was not a fast way either. The particular art and school that I was in was remarkably disciplined, very slow demanded patience, commitment, concentration, respect, excellence & proficiency
before one could even test for another belt.
It pushed me to years with some painful needed lessons and frustrations and near tears from feeling I acheived what I never felt I could.
I had the materials- I have the flowers and plants there is the puzzle and mystery for me to figure out- my challange- my own interpretation. I wanted it to be my lilac found with my hard work all the hours of smelling hundreds of materials and piecing the flower back together. I know it is not as fast as looking up a formula- but that is someone else, some one elses chemical analysis. To use my nose and vintage Shalimar and try to make a natural reproduction-- getting a synthetic vanillin note out of botanicals was a challange
I am the singer songwriter of my perfumes. I am the story teller- not them. It was up to me to learn all the vast language of notes from anise to zdravets from 1 second to it completely fades how they express when combined times 1,2,3 ,4 ,5 ,6 ,7.,,,,,
How to create dreams and other's dreams into scent songs.
I'm a dodo- perhaps a last bird verses a Vireo and perhaps literally to others. it doesnt mean I am happy about it. I feel sad often these day in social media. It's very overwhelming- and one looks like me can get easily taken advantage of for being too eager to assist for the love of these materials.
and watch slackjaw as people that came to you seemingly very interested in learning more and more present, their true colors greedy for information and not wanting to do work, to get just enough info so they can open their perfume house, get their name out and then you watch as they're more inclined to film themselves, literally dumping- hand pouring precious limited in availibility materials without much at all thought.
This is excruciating practice of letting go and powerlessness for someone like me who's unlimited income and works with 2 mL absolutes.
( I love how having a blog versus being on say Instagram just takes the finger out of the dam haha)
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